“F-E-A-R has two meanings: Forget Everything And Run or Face Everything And Rise. The choice is yours.”
Zig Ziglar
Summer 2023 began by learning our fixer-upper 1980 Carver Santa Cruz had a working engine. After the boat float test, we spent 24 hours in Door County. Then two nights salmon fishing in Lake Michigan.
As fall arrived, we achieved a new milestone: a four-night trip with three docked at marinas and one anchored off an island.
I had fears going in. Could the boat hold up from such continuous use? Were we pushing our luck with the weather? Would I get seasick again — or worse — fail at my duties as First Mate?
Though we had to navigate minor challenges, it was an all-around success. The trip, like much of our travels, was a mix of planning and letting the chips fall where they may. It came together so nicely I thought I’d share the full itinerary and summary in case you plan a trip to Door County by boat in the future.
More importantly, I hope it inspires you to take a chance or face some fears of your own.
Night 1: Stay at Fish Creek Town Dock
Last time, we launched from a busy marina in Egg Harbor. This time, Brett wanted to try a town dock seven miles further up the Green Bay side of Wisconsin’s Door County Peninsula. Fish Creek is a quaint coastal village known as being a hub for Northern Door County’s shopping and recreation. The Town Dock is located just one block off of Main Street.
Launch in Fish Creek
We pulled into Fish Creek late Thursday afternoon, hoping it would be an off-time for other boaters coming or going from the water. Whether it was from the timing or a fierce north wind causing whitecaps on the water, we had the place to ourselves.
The Town Dock had two launches to choose from. At that moment, it was a choice of lesser evils: one more exposed to the rough water and the other calmer but more confined by shore and docked boats.
While Brett went in the office to reserve our slip for the night, I returned to the truck, turned on the seat heaters, and gave myself a mental pep talk. Everything would be fine.
Brett returned and pulled the truck and trailer into the boat staging area in front of the calmer launch option. I braced myself for the chill and soon got into a rhythm of unpacking supplies from the truck. He backed the boat into the water and we tied up and loaded everything in.
Finally, the engine roared to life and it was time to push away from the dock and maneuver to slip 27 — a straight shot once we reversed out of the confined area and around parked boats on either side. The girl working in the dock house came out to help us ease against the pier, which is tough to do when the wind catches the flybridge.
All too soon, the moment arrived where the responsibility rested on me to make the leap to the pier and stop the boat from hitting the dock. Adrenaline kicked in and I went for it. It was over in a few seconds, but I was left shaking and in a cold sweat. Will that ever get less nerve wracking?!
Warm up at Bayside Tavern
After moving the truck to the trailer parking lot located a half mile down Main Street, we organized the cabin, plugged in to electricity, used the facilities — my favorite perk of staying at a marina — and were ready to find a hot meal.
Back on Main Street, the sidewalks were bustling with people weaving in and out of shops and restaurants lining each side of the road. We decided to have dinner at Bayside Tavern, a downtown Fish Creek staple since 1922. The place was packed, but we lucked out with two seats at the bar as another couple left.
A family member recommended Bayside’s fish fry, but I needed comfort food to ease my nerves and the chill. The amazing beef stew special did just that. Brett went with homemade pizza.
Our seats gave us a front row view of the bartenders making round after round of one of the restaurant’s specials: Bayside Flaming Coffee! The cozy atmosphere made for the perfect place to relax and warm up before heading back to the wind and waves.
Day 1: Explore Fish Creek
By mid-morning on Friday the wind calmed and the sun broke through the clouds. Our plan was to spend the majority of the day in Fish Creek, which neighbors a 3,700+ acre Wisconsin state park. The friendly young man working at the Town Dock provided great recommendations for breakfast and bike rentals.
Grab breakfast at Blue Horse Beach Cafe
Blue Horse Beach Café was on the way to the park right across the street from Fish Creek Public Beach. If the line to order didn’t give it away, I was sure it was going to be good upon learning all the breakfast sandwich sauces were made from scratch.
We filled our coffee, stepped out the back door to the outdoor seating area, and came back in when space opened up at the counter near the food pickup window.
“Brett, your breakfast is ready,” a man’s cheery voice called from the window. “Have a happy day!”
It was well on its way.
Ride bikes through Peninsula State Park
After breakfast, we continued walking north to Edge of Park Rentals, conveniently located near the entrance of Peninsula State Park. Within minutes we were set up with two hybrid road/trail bicycles and pedaling on to the park’s Sunset Bike Trail.
Established in 1909, Peninsula State Park is considered Wisconsin’s most “complete” park, with 3,776 acres, 460 campsites, an 18-hole golf course, a summer theater, beaches, trails, and eight miles of shoreline.
Our route took us on a combination of trails and paved roads, through dense forest and along the rocky coast of the Niagara Escarpment — a limestone cliff that runs from Lake Winnebago in east-central Wisconsin through Ontario, Canada before winding down near Niagara Falls in New York!
We got off our bikes to go inside Eagle Bluff Lighthouse and to climb the steps of Eagle Tower.
Exploring Peninsula State Park by bike was a great way to cover more ground than if we were on foot, but we missed hiking the highly-recommended Eagle Bluff Trail. Next time!
Walk through town
By mid-afternoon, our rentals were returned and we moseyed in and out of some shops on Main Street. My favorite was the Fish Creek Market – a modern take on a traditional family-run general store filled with fresh and local goodies.
The fresh deli was tempting, but packed sandwiches and snacks were waiting on the boat. We ate a late lunch on the flybridge and back deck before checking out and pulling away from the dock. Destination: Horseshoe Island.
Night 2: Anchor at Horseshoe Island
We knew from our last visit that Horseshoe Island had a dock that would be perfect to tie up to for the night. A larger yacht beat us to it, but there was still plenty of space to anchor in the island’s calm “U” of its southern shore.
Horseshoe has a fairly steep drop-off, so we had to pull up very close to get within wading distance to tie a rope to shore. Someday we’ll have a dinghy to make the process faster – or at least less wet!
Cook on shore
Once the anchors were down and rope tied, we made some trips back and forth to bring dinner supplies to shore. We joked about how the Brett and Carrie of 24 hours ago never would’ve believed we’d be in the water in swimsuits. How quickly the weather and perspectives can change.
Watch the sunset
As the sun got lower in the sky, it fell out of sight behind the trees on the west side of the island. After dinner, we hopped on the well-traveled mile-long trail that loops the island’s perimeter and found an empty beach with an unobstructed view.
If you’re thinking, “How amazingly peaceful,” you’re correct — but there’s more to the story.
As bright stars emerged from the darkened sky we retraced our steps, waded back on the boat, and tucked into bed. In the midst of feeling wrapped in tranquility during this “camping on water” experience, a big yacht near us — one of only five of us in the bay — erupted into a mechanical hum. A generator!
What could we do but laugh? In truth, it wasn’t even 9 p.m. and only lasted a half hour or so — they had every right to do what they needed to do. It was just ironic.
Day 2: Head to Washington Island
Waking with the morning’s first light, we lifted anchor, waved goodbye to the man sipping coffee on the neighboring sailboat, and headed toward the rising sun.
Our next destination, Washington Island, was about 30 miles northeast. We decided to take our time using just the kicker and trolling motors for the majority of the voyage. Along the way Brett put out some walleye fishing planer boards and I read a book — something I hadn’t done during the day in a long time. The hours passed quickly.
Excitement built as we approached Porte des Morts – a.k.a. Door of Death – the straight linking Lake Michigan and Green Bay between the northernmost tip of Door County’s mainland and Washington Island. The name came from the apparent treacherous waters that claimed the life of many Native Americans, merchants, sailors, and pirates dating back to the 1600s.
Folklore or not, I was on high alert during this last leg of the journey. We switched to the main engine and cruised to the west of Plum Island and into the small alcove between Detroit Island and the southwest tip of Washington Island.
Carefully navigate to a marina
As we slowed down in the west channel, the clear water showed bottom not far below. My eyes darted to our Lowrance in the flybridge and saw the depth go from eight feet to six feet. Yikes! Luckily there was a robust buoy system to guide boaters away from too-shallow areas. Still, as first timers, it was a little alarming.
We puttered to a small marina on the south-central part of the island that Brett found on Google Maps, which turned out to be the only one open for transient boaters during our visit. After a failed first attempt to dock at the gas pier (First Mate forgot her rope and couldn’t hold on to the boat after jumping on…), we were tied up and walked near the office.
An older gentleman saw us and asked if we needed help. His name was Andy and he was the father of the marina’s current owner. He called his son, Andy Jr., and confirmed we could take a slip for the night.
Another heart-pumping navigation to our pier, and we were situated at Shipyard Island Marina.
Walk to island attractions
Andy Sr. told us the marina came with a courtesy vehicle — such a nice amenity — but we wanted to explore the island by foot after six hours on the boat. For miles and miles we passed old farms, country homes, and apple trees heavy with fruit.
Our first stop was Fragrant Isle Lavender Farm, a destination that’s been on my radar for several years. The final lavender harvest happened just a few days prior, but the gardens were still beautiful and the gift shop and café were filled with lavender treats. We bought two scones to enjoy on the back patio.
Just down the road was another one of the island’s main attractions, the Stavkirke — a beautiful Scandinavian inspired church modeled after the Borgund Stavkirke constructed in 1150 near Laerdal, Sogn. If the Cherry Train shuttle hadn’t passed us and announced the stop, we might’ve walked right by.
Once we hit the main drag (called Main Road — not Street), we passed the island’s only grocery store and restaurants and shops peppered each side of the street. Nelsen’s Hall Bitters Pub is a well-known establishment, but we opted to skip it because of a rowdy Saturday afternoon crowd outside.
Instead, we stopped at the open air Granary Saloon and enjoyed listening to two bartenders who turned out to be father and daughter. We learned how islanders rally together to pick up supplies for each other from the mainland.
For example, a woman stopped by that day with an order of cherries from Lautenbach’s Orchard in Fish Creek. Apparently the restaurant’s general manager had posted the need in a locals Facebook group and she happened to be passing through that day — and even paid for the order without realizing he had an account to charge it to. That kind of community spirit warms my heart.
Our last stop before looping back to the marina was at the Island Popcorn Barn — indeed “popping smiles by the batches!”
Night 3: Stay at Shipyard Island Marina
By the time we arrived back at the marina, people were filing into Sailors Pub — the water-view restaurant next door. We took glorious showers in Shipyard’s bathrooms, donned our nicest flannels, and stepped inside only to learn a reservation was needed if we wanted to sit inside for dinner before 8 p.m.
That was our plan, until we ate some leftovers on the boat and found ourselves in bed again just after sunset. All that fresh air and walking can do you in!
Day 3: Enjoy more of Washington Island
Sunday morning we woke to the putter of rain on the windshield. It seemed our luck of dodging rain finally ran out.
We waited it out as long as possible, but by mid-morning were antsy to get out of the cabin. Suddenly the courtesy vehicle didn’t seem like such a bad idea. Away we went around the island in search of caffeine and a warming meal.
Lunch at Jackson Harbor Soup
After two strikes at restaurants not serving that day — fall is a tough time for service businesses that rely on college students for employment — we drove to Jackson Harbor on the northeast edge of the island.
Jackson Harbor Soup is next to the parking lot of the Rock Island State Park ferry, promising hot soup and handmade sandwiches for visitors returning from their adventure to the uninhabited island. We sat by a window with a view of the water and took our time, starting with giant mugs of self-serve Door County coffee and logging on to the wifi to monitor the weather. (The marina didn’t offer wifi.)
Eventually we ordered soup and paninis — such warm, melty, flavorful treats.
View Rock Island
By the time we left, the rain slowed to a sprinkle and we strolled over to the water to get a closer look at Rock Island. A ferry was on its way back with a group of passengers, including day trippers, overnight backpackers, and even a dog. Hopefully next time we can get to Rock Island and hike the six mile trail around its shoreline.
Night 4: Stay at Sister Bay Marina
Back at the marina, we took advantage of the break in the rain to pack up and ship out. We retraced our “steps” across Death’s Door Passage and slowed to a troll along the peninsula so see if any fish would bite. No luck.
As we made our way toward Sister Bay, I caught up on some work on my computer and felt so lucky to be in a position of working from our boat. This was so far from the Sunday afternoons that used to bring such anxiety for the workweek ahead.
But a different type of nerve creeped in as we got close to Sister Bay: getting into another unfamiliar slip. Thankfully, the guy we made the reservation with at Sister Bay Marina said he would come out and stand on our dock as we made our way into the harbor. His calm presence made such a difference as Brett eased us in and I prepared for another leap to the pier.
Explore Sister Bay
Just nine miles up the peninsula from Fish Creek, Sister Bay is also known for its harbor town vibe with many options for shopping, dining, and recreation. However, it has a claim to fame that other nearby communities don’t: Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant — a.k.a. “the restaurant with goats on the roof.”
Our slip even had a view of Al Johnson’s grassy rooftops, but sadly the goats never made an appearance during our brief stay. Another reason to return in the future.
As Sunday afternoon turned to evening, we popped into some clothing and gift shops and lingered outside restaurants with TVs showing the Packers vs. Bears football game. With many Illinois license plates on Door County streets, it was a lively and passionate game.
Once again we entertained the idea of going out to dinner, but decided to balance our heavy restaurant lunch with food we brought. At dusk, a cover band started playing classic hits from a nearby restaurant. No need to even move from the boat to enjoy the music.
Day 4: Head home
Morning arrived, and instead of raindrops, we woke to the sound of a lawn mower. I stretched my head from our bed alcove and saw city employees up and at ’em tending to the landscaping and restrooms at the waterfront park. Ah yes — Monday.
We went for a quick walk around the marina, stopping at the office to fill our coffee mugs. It was tempting to linger, but the sky looked threatening and the wind was picking up. Time to get moving.
The cruise between Sister Bay and Fish Creek was rough. While waves rocked us back and forth I stood in the cabin to try to keep items from falling and keep myself calm and grounded. Typically my nerves increase as we enter a harbor, but I was so relieved to be nearing land I was hardly fazed by the final docking. No fear or hesitation to jump this time — Get me out of here!
F-E-A-R vs. reality
So, did I succeed in choosing Zig’s version of fear that means Face Everything And Rise? Let’s be honest, that last leap looked more like Forget Everything And Run. But — be it from the circumstances or simply having some more experience under my belt — it was actually our smoothest docking of the entire trip.
And, as often happens, none of my fears came true. The main engine started and held up without issue. No trailer woes. No seasickness. The weather did its thing and we adjusted plans as necessary. Though it wasn’t always smooth, no damage was done to myself or the boat during docking.
There’s still so much to learn and improve, but I think confidence comes from action — the experience of doing hard or scary things, often before we feel ready, and living to tell the tale. We come out the other side with a few bumps and bruises and, hopefully, some wisdom that makes it easier to take the leap next time.
We also came away with some to-do’s and things to remember for the next trip:
- Fix the gas gauge that stopped working.
- Re-seal the front cabin window, which leaked during the rain — though not as bad as last time.
- Bring a percolator or other solution to make coffee without electricity.
- Pack rain gear and extra warm clothes – no matter the forecast!
Special thanks to my mom’s cousin, Jean, and our boat mentor, Phil, for Door County insights that helped make it a successful and memorable experience.
Your turn
Have a question or suggestion about boating, visiting Door County, or facing fears (yes — let’s go deep!)? If you made it this far, please be sure to drop a note in the comments below.
I love it!! What an amazing recap of your long weekend adventures!! And a really fun read.
(Your quote is perfect!)
PS – I’m glad you did not have the coffee at the Bayside. I did that once and it wasn’t pretty! Delicious, but dangerous – haha
Haha — I can totally see how that would happen! Thanks so much for your sweet words and the laugh.
Carrie, loved reading about your adventures in Door County. It’s a great place to experience different bays without too much travel in between. We sure wish we could have been here to see you. Next time maybe!! In the meantime keep writing; you’re a wonderful writer and can’t wait to hear about your next adventure.
Oh Jean — thank you! That means so much to me. We missed you and absolutely hope to see you next time. You can be the first person to have a dance party on the boat!
Great story Carrie. Beautiful! I can sooooo relate to the first-mate docking fear! I have a few tips to share after all these years of practice: (1) whenever we are pulling into harbors, we call the harbormaster’s office and ask for some dockhand assistance at slip X. I stand on the bough and toss the lines to the dockhand(s) and let them do the work, (2) when dockhands aren’t available, and we’re pulling into the slip, I loop the stern line around the first dock pylon and the bough line around the middle pylon while standing on the bough of the boat (I don’t jump off-too risky). I may have to show you since Im not sure I described that very wel, (3) Buy an extendable boating hook. Lary always keeps it handy when we dock in case I miss my mark so he can back me up and grab a cleat with the hook, (4) always get the lines attached to the stern and bough cleats long before your approaching the slip and (5) buy long, good weighty lines- tossing and looping the pylons is much easier. Hope the helps to rid the docking fears!!
Aunt Celeste! Wow — I should’ve consulted you sooner. Thanks so much for reading and sharing your tips. It’s reassuring to know I’m not the only one who has experienced docking fears and that there are some tricks of the trade that can help increase confidence. Hope we can join you and Lary out on the water someday!