After five months of anticipation, our Coachmen Clipper travel trailer finally made its camping debut!
We bought the camper just before Christmas in 2019 and quickly made plans to go to the Smoky Mountains the following March. Sadly, the trip was canceled one week before takeoff due to the coronavirus outbreak and rapid spread in the U.S. By late May, business closures and safer-at-home orders had begun being lifted, so we jumped at the chance for a long, socially-distant weekend to celebrate our three-year wedding anniversary.
Why choose Bagley?
Many campgrounds were still closed, so our options were more limited than during a normal time. We set our sites on somewhere in Wisconsin’s driftless region because of the scenery and only being a few hours from home.
The driftless area is a portion of the upper Midwest that was bypassed by the last continental glacier. It has a steep, rugged landscape and the largest concentration of cold water streams in the world. The term “driftless” comes from a lack of glacial drift, which is the deposits of silt, gravel, and rock that retreating glaciers leave behind.
Basically, it was the closest we could get to a mountain getaway!
Boulder Creek Campground
Finding a place to stay was not an easy feat. We scoured Google Maps for scenic destinations and then dug in to campground websites and Facebook to see if they were open. As usual, Brett found the winner: Boulder Creek Campground. It was only a few miles from a beautiful looking state park we had never been to. They were open and we were sold!
New & improved facilities
Boulder Creek is nestled in the bluffs of the Mississippi River Valley. It used to be a Jellystone property and new owners are working to make it their own. At the time of our stay, there were construction projects underway including cabin building and recreation areas being moved and/or updated. A property map shows plans for the final layout.
Fun for the family
With offerings such as an in-ground pool, mini golf, and “jumping pillow” (which sadly wasn’t available), it’s clear Boulder Creek caters to families. It was fun watching kids of all ages run around, ride their bikes, stomp in the mud, and exclaim at the sound of approaching trains.
Speaking of: it’s good to know ahead of time that the campground sits next to a set of train tracks. Those looking for quiet and seclusion may not appreciate the ongoing activity.
A community of happy campers
The crowd seemed to be a mix of weekenders and seasonal campers. Everyone who walked or drove by in a truck, golf cart, or side-by-side was nothing short of welcoming. There seemed to be a true sense of community and, had six-foot social distancing not been a restriction, new friends would likely have been made.
Truthfully, the campsites were less secluded than we prefer and the amenities offered are much more than we need. Our 17-footer was definitely the “dingy” of the group! But it was a perfect spot to explore the area and to test the travel trailer waters.
Day 1 – Pit stop, setup, & kick back
Late Friday morning we bid adieu to the chickens, who were stocked with several days’ worth of food and water, and set off westward. Our plan was to stretch our legs around the halfway point of Sauk City.
Ferry Bluff State Natural Area
Brett found Ferry Bluff State Natural Area, which looked to offer a short but rewarding hike with expansive views over the Wisconsin River.
This is where we learned an incredibly valuable lesson about traveling with a trailer: know what’s at the end of the road before driving in!
The one-mile gravel road entry led to a parking area with several parked cars and barely enough space for a truck alone to turn around.
My spirits were not lifted as Brett examined the surroundings, unhooked the trailer, and handed me wooden blocks to secure the camper tires from rolling down the hill into the river. With some serious skill and good fortune, he maneuvered the truck and re-hooked the camper safe-and-sound. Crisis averted!
The hike itself had a well-established path and was the perfect length of about a mile each way. There was just enough increase in elevation to get the heart beating and to “feel the burn.” A few other groups were coming and going, and a young couple was enjoying a picnic lunch from the lookout at the top.
Interesting vegetation was growing along the slopes including one of my favorites: ferns! According to the DNR, the area has a rich groundlayer and shade to support diverse varieties including fragile and bulbet fern.
Arrival & relaxation
We arrived in Bagley just before 3:00 p.m. Because of COVID, registration was completed digitally and all we had to do was pull into our reserved spot. Being used to pitching a tent, it didn’t take long to get set up and settled in.
We walked around the property, waved hello to fellow campers, and stopped at the store to purchase a bundle of firewood. While Brett got the fire roaring I worked on arranging the supplies and camper storage (which I’d proceed to rearrange throughout the trip).
We enjoyed a few All Day IPAs and cooked burgers over the campfire tripod grill before calling it a night.
Day 2 – Hit the trails
Saturday morning brought an abundance of sunshine that was not to be missed because rain was on the horizon. We took Paisley for a short walk before having a light breakfast and heading out to the state park.
Wyalusing State Park
Situated where the Mississippi and Wisconsin rivers meet, Wyalusing State Park is one of Wisconsin’s oldest parks. Its nearly 2,700 acres are characterized by bluffs, hardwood forests, pine plantations, waterfalls, wetlands, backwaters, and Indian burial grounds.
The park offers over 14 miles of hiking trails. Besides hiking, people visit to enjoy canoeing, bird watching, fishing, and camping.
We chose to hike Bluff Trail, which hugs the bluffside and meanders to a heavily forested area. There were some steep climbs and descents that Paisley’s 10-year-old hips did not appreciate. It was a good excuse to slow down and enjoy the view.
With Wyalusing’s campground being closed, it gave us an opportunity to walk through the sites. What a view! Set 500 feet above the rivers, many campsites offer gorgeous lookouts of the rivers and surrounding landscape. It seems likely these spots fill up quickly during a typical season.
Wyalusing Public Beach
Had we been on our game, we would have packed lunch and beach supplies for Wyalusing Public Beach to kick back at after hiking. The beach is just two miles south of the state park and looked to have a nice (albeit small) sandy beach area along the Mississippi.
“We’ll change, pack up a cooler, and come back!” we promised as the beach beckoned from the truck window. But of course a campfire and lawn chair sounded just as inviting once we got back to the campground.
Once the coals got hot we cooked bear bacon, bear brats, and potatoes over the fire. The storm started moving in as it got dark so we called it another early night.
Day 3 – Making the best of a rainy day
Rain was in the forecast off and on throughout Sunday. Some may find this disappointing, but we were elated not to be among those packing up and heading home. We still had another night and intended to make the most of it.
Prairie du Chien, WI
Prairie du Chien, the oldest European settlement on the Upper Mississippi River, is just over 15 scenic miles north of Bagley. The community has much to offer for the history buff, attraction seeker, and local souvenir shopper.
But for the outdoor enthusiast in the midst of a downpour, there seemed to be one clear option: Cabela’s.
We had no plans to buy anything, but the outdoor outfitter is also marketed as an educational and entertainment attraction. We perused the animal displays and aquariums stocked with local fish.
Brett has his eye on a meat grinder for processing a deer at home in the fall. I took the opportunity to try on Muck boots to eventually replace my current pair of cracking rubber boots.
I would love to go back to Prairie du Chien to visit some of the local shops and historic sites.
Marquette, IA
Just across the Marquette-Joliet Bridge is the picturesque community of Marquette, Iowa. One might not expect much from a place with a 2010 census population of 375, but don’t be fooled.
Within just a few miles lies a boat launch and marina, fishing pier, a depot railroad museum, riverboat tours, a riverboat casino, a state park, a nature center (which also hosts a farmers market), antique shops, and – the reason for our visit – a winery!
Eagles Landing Winery
Eagles Landing Winery is a small, family owned winery right in the heart of Marquette’s quaint downtown. They were named Winery of the Year in 2018 and many of the wines have also received accolades.
Lucky for us they had recently reopened their doors as the state had begun to loosen pandemic business restrictions. Tastings weren’t available, but we could purchase a glass, peruse the wine-themed retail, and sit down in the Wine Down Room (clever). There was also a wine garden that would be perfect on a sunny day.
Eagles Landing’s website includes the statement “turning grapes into wine and strangers into friends.” That was definitely the vibe we got from the woman helping with our wine selections. She helped us narrow down the 30+ options, which range from dry reds to sweet fruit and dessert wines.
We ended up with glasses of Constance (the driest white) and Volga Lake Blush (an award-winning rosé). They were nice and light for afternoon sipping. Before leaving we picked out a bottle of Outstanding Red, a gold medal-winning dry red that is a tribute to the owners’ father, who loved his vineyard.
A fun surprise was seeing bags of Guth’s popcorn available for purchase. Based in our neck of the woods, Guth’s Candy is another wonderful family-run, community-supporting business (with a history dating back to 1921!). The woman said we were not the first Wisconsinites to exclaim at the sight of the Guth’s label.
Marquette, IA scenic lookout
Before re-crossing the state border we followed a sign to a scenic lookout. The road was a steep incline to an overlook and picnic area above the Mighty Mississippi. The informational signs provided a glimpse into the area’s history. We learned the lookout was actually the site of where the original bridge crossed the river.
Had it been open I would have loved to have stopped at the Marquette Depot Museum, which offers railroad exhibits and serves as the area’s information center.
Back at the campground, we took advantage of a break in the rain to build a last campfire, cook dinner, and pop a bottle of anniversary champagne.
Day 4 – Morning hike & on the road again
Just down the road and across the train tracks from Boulder Creek Campground is an easy-to-miss natural area perfect for a morning jaunt. Simply walk out the Boulder Creek entrance, turn left, and take a right at the first walkway crossing the railroad tracks. There will be a long driveway through a farm field before the official Bagley Bottoms entrance sign.
Bagley Bottoms Landing
Bagley Bottoms is technically a boat landing. Don’t dismiss it if you aren’t looking for a place to launch – this secluded gem is a haven for birds, beavers, and other wildlife that call the floodplain forest home.
The landing actually falls under the birding category on Travel Wisconsin: “A short hiking trail leads to the backwaters of the Mississippi where there are numerous birds to be found on most days. Species such as Yellow-crowned Night Herons, Pileated Woodpeckers and American Egrets are seen in the area.”
We often joke about my lofty dream of having a “big year” (à la Jack Black) but alas, my naming skills don’t go far beyond the bald eagles and sandhill cranes in our backyard. However, we did enjoy an eagle sighting and a glimpse into the life of aptly named busy beavers.
homeward bound
And that’s that! On the way home we reflected on highlights from the weekend as well as three years of marriage that have flown by.
Are you planning a trip to Driftless Wisconsin?
Share your plans in the comments below!
Trip at-a-Glance
Campground
- Boulder Creek Campground | Bagley, WI
Hiking
- Ferry Bluff State Natural Area | Sauk City, WI
- Wyalusing State Park | Wyalusing, WI
- Bagley Bottoms Landing | Bagley, WI
Attractions
- Eagles Landing Winery | Marquette, IA
- Cabela’s | Prairie du Chien, WI
meals (recipes to come!)
- Over-the-Campfire Burgers
- Over-the-Campfire Bear Brats
- Over-the-Campfire Bear Bacon
- Over-the-Campfire BBQ Chicken Breast
- Over-the-Campfire Potatoes
