What is it about seeing a place on foot that changes the travel experience? Does it make us slow down? Notice more? Save a few bucks? Enjoy the journey and not just the destination?
Whatever the reason, our travels tend to include a great deal of walking. Our visit to St. John’s, the capital of Canada’s easternmost island, was no exception. Each day we put one foot in front of the other for hours and hours, logging miles – or, rather, kilometers – on city streets, through villages and historic sites, and along winding, rugged coasts of the North Atlantic.
If you, too, want to experience the culture and natural wonder of St. John’s by foot, here a rundown of our three days of hiking — plus two takeaways that can translate to any destination.
Day 1. Quidi Vidi, Signal Hill, and North Head Trail
Our plane arrived in St. John’s after 1:00 a.m. — not exactly prime time for seeing new surroundings! That made the first day all the more special. Our first glimpses of the city’s notorious jellybean colored houses lining the streets came only after lacing up our hiking boots and setting out to explore.
Quidi Vidi
Our first destination was Quidi Vidi, an old fishing village — technically a neighborhood of St. John’s — on the northeast side of the city. The route evolved from downtown business district to residential roads to the Quidi Vidi Lake Trail.
The lake trail merged with Quidi Vidi Village Road and we took the narrow street that is said to lead you back in time. Sure, there was an old church and tired houses. But the village also had modern artisan studios, a former fish plant turned craft brewery, and picnic tables lined up in an open space along the wharf that fills with food trucks. An eclectic mix of old and new.
Signal Hill
The beauty of this route was being able to exit the south end of the village and head toward another St. John’s landmark — Signal Hill National Historic Site. The hill has served important purposes including military defense from the 1600s to WWII.
While en route, we got a call from the airport that our luggage that didn’t make the connection from Toronto to St. John’s was being delivered to our hotel. What a relief! It included Brett’s rifle and our bag of supplies for moose hunting, requiring us to detour back and sign for the items.
Soon enough we were back on the streets “feeling the burn” on a steady incline up Signal Hill Road. Midway up we stopped at the welcome center and continued the scenic and rather comical ascent along the sidewalk as cars and tour buses sped past.
North Head Trail
From the top of Signal Hill, we took the 1.7 km North Head Trail that winds along the hillside back down to the harbor. According to Parks Canada, it is the oldest and most popular of the trails near Signal Hill — a route that may have been in use as far back as the 1500s.
The trail ended on a narrow dead end road in a neighborhood of St. John’s known as The Battery. The name comes from it being the site of military artillery batteries that defended the harbor.
Day 2. Sugarloaf Path and Burma Trail
Our second day got off to a late start due to rain and getting locked inside a cafe because an active shooter was on the loose. Not quite how I envisioned bonding with locals! No harm done – we were safe and still had plenty of time to get steps in.
Sugarloaf Path (East Coast Trail)
Upon our release, we made our way back toward Quidi Vidi, passing two older gentleman in a townhouse yard discussing how to prepare for Hurricane Fiona predicted to reach Newfoundland in a few days. Yes – it was an exciting trip!
Sugarloaf Path is an 8.8 km portion of the East Coast Trail that starts along the cliffs of the Quidi Vidi Harbor.
Though the rocky coast was similar to the previous day’s, this hike was such a different experience. The fog, mist, and bouts of rain made it feel like being in Ireland. Be it the weather or a less traveled route, it was much more secluded and peaceful.
The trail eventually led to a dirt road that brought us away from the coast to the trail end at the Ocean Sciences Centre. While rounding a switchback, out of the fog emerged an ominous fox.
The hike from trailhead to trailhead took us four hours.
Burma Road Trail
If that wasn’t enough, we decided to take a new way “home” via the Burma Road Trail that connects Quidi Vidi to Signal Hill Road, leading back into the heart of St. John’s. It was nice to be tucked away in the woods and stop at some lookout points along the way, even if it added extra time and incline to the return.
Day 3. Freshwater Bay, Deadman’s Bay Path, and downtown St. John’s
Day three was a long one. Thankfully, Brett planned the route and I got to take in and enjoy each step of the trip without knowing what was coming along the way.
Getting to the trailhead
The “hike before the hike” started with a stroll through downtown St. John’s, made more interesting by swarms of visitors that recently deboarded a cruise ship in the harbor.
From the edge of downtown, we crossed the highway and began up a hill through more residential neighborhoods, past a school, and along the side of Blackhead Road. Cars zoomed by. Construction workers gave us questionable looks. We confirmed we were heading in the right direction and chugged along.
Freshwater Bay and Blackhead Trail (East Coast Trail)
Finally, we reached the trailhead parking lot and began the “real” hike. The 2.2 km stretch to Freshwater Bay began through thick vegetation that eventually opened up to the bay and met Deadman’s Bay Path — another section of the East Coast Trail. We stopped for a snack and to feel the freezing water in Freshwater Bay Pond.
From there, we hopped on Deadman’s Bay Path, climbing back up a cliffside and temporarily leaving the coast through a forest with sporadic ocean views. We met very few others along the way, less for an older couple that breezed past us as we clipped along at what we thought was a healthy pace at the top of the tree line. Goals!
After 10 km, the trail descended and ended at Fort Amherst, an historic site on the opposite side of St. John’s Harbor from Signal Hill. It’s marked by a plaque due to no physical remains of the original British fortification built in 1777. We strolled by the red and white lighthouse, a cluster of private homes (You can actually stay at the former lightkeeper’s house!), and remains from a WWII battery.
Though our hotel was just across the water, the only way to get there on foot was by taking Southside Road to the Waterford River Walk to a bridge that connects to downtown — a mere 6 km final leg.
George Street, downtown St. John’s
Since it was our last night and we had to walk through downtown anyway, we ventured to George Street — a small but lively entertainment district famous for its pubs, clubs, live music, and festivals.
It was Friday night and groups of 20-somethings were having a whale of a time hopping from bar to bar, with music pounding from doorways and rooftop bars. I can only imagine what we looked like trudging along next to them with our backpacks and skin caked in sweat and dirt.
Needless to say, we continued on to a quieter pub for a well-earned meal and early to bed. After three full days on our feet, it was time to get some rest and make our way west for the moose hunt.
Tips and takeaways
What made hiking St. John’s so memorable? Here are two takeaways that I think can translate to any destination.
Think beyond the ‘best’ trails
It’s easy to get overwhelmed by all the lists touting the best hikes in St. John’s. How do you choose when you can’t do them all? What does “best” even mean?
Those articles can be helpful, but I realized it really didn’t matter. Every hike had something to offer. Beautiful views, new perspectives, historic significance…
What created the real sense of adventure was all the experiences navigating to the trails. Taking it slow while the world around us rushed past. Time together without the distraction of screens. Conversations with strangers and each other as we questioned whether we were lost — or merely lost our sanity. The satisfaction of stepping back in front of the hotel doors having left the same spot hours earlier and experiencing everything from our own two feet.
Replenish your energy
The best part of walking all day? Guilt-free meals at night!
Our first dinner was most memorable. As soon as we sat down at a table near the live music area in an Irish-themed pub, a musician arrived and chatted with us as he set up his equipment. Not only did we get to enjoy a great feel of the local music scene, he bid us adieu and wished us luck moose hunting over the mic as we waved and walked out the door.
Cut to the second night. We were too exhausted to do anything except kick up our feet and order pizza from the comfort of bed. Sometimes that’s the best you can ask for from a couple of introverts that need to recharge!
The lesson: Listen to your body, know your limits, and remain flexible to make or adjust plans based on what you need. No part of me regrets not sticking around with the hooligans on George Street to get “screeched in.”
Above all, consider planning your travel around what sparks your interest and brings you joy. If the endless must do’s shared online make you anxious, forget them! Honestly, where is the adventure in everyone rushing around to do the same, “best” things?
Walking might mean fewer checks off a bucket list, but it doesn’t mean we experience less. It may just help us see, feel, and connect more.
Your turn
Have you had a great experience exploring a destination on foot? What made it special? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below.
Sounds amazing! Beginning to end.
I never heard a word about the active shooter part…hmmmm
Mom❤️❤️❤️
Thank you, Mom. 🤍 Am sure I would’ve reported that part to you had my phone not been in airplane mode the whole trip. But as you’ve said — sometimes ignorance is bliss!
Very well done Carrie.
And yes, walking is a great way to go. In a car you look, on foot you actually see.
My favorite was introverts in a hotel room eatting pizza! Amen.
“In a car you look, on foot you actually see.” Is that an original quote? I love it — so simple and profound!